It was a trip I had dreamed of for a long time: going to Japan and seeing the cherry blossoms in spring. Our honeymoon was the perfect opportunity for this, especially as the destination seemed more or less doable in a wheelchair… which largely turned out to be true. So we left at the beginning of April for two weeks, split between Tokyo, Kyoto, Hakone and two days in Seoul on the way back. In this article, I share what accessibility in Japan and Seoul really looks like: public transport, temples, pavements, museums – honestly and in detail.
Days 1–3: Tokyo in a wheelchair
We arrive in Tokyo in the evening and see nothing of the city on that day except the journey between Haneda Airport and our hotel in Ginza.
Day 1: Asakusa, Ueno Park, Tokyo National Museum, Akihabara & Nihonbashi.
Our first full day in Tokyo begins in the more traditional district of Asakusa with the Senso-ji Temple. The shopping street leading to the temple is packed with people. It happens to be Buddha’s birthday, celebrated with many activities around the temple. The temple is accessible by elevator, which a member of staff kindly directs us to.
From Senso-ji, we walk through the Asakusa area towards Ueno Park. Good surprise: the pavements are quite accessible. Sometimes there are no pavements, only painted markings on the road, but drivers respect them and are very cautious.
Ueno Park and its cherry blossoms are wonderful… and we share the experience with many other visitors admiring the same spectacle.
We then head to the Tokyo National Museum. The entrance is accessible and discounted tickets are available on presentation of my Austrian disability card, which – after being checked by three different staff members – is also accepted. Inside the museum, ramps and elevators allow us to explore the Japanese art collection, including beautiful woodblock prints, which I have always had a soft spot for. We even have tea in a small garden pavilion. Very pastoral.
We stroll again through Ueno Park and continue on to Akihabara where we pop into a few shops, without lingering too long: the noise level is a bit high for me, and not all the shops are very accessible.
We walk back to the hotel through the Nihonbashi district.
In Tokyo’s streets…
Day 2: TeamLab Borderless, Azabudai Hills, Hamarikyu Gardens, Ginza, Mandarin Oriental & Mitsukoshi Nihombashi.
Apart from one installation, TeamLab Borderless is fully accessible in a wheelchair. At the entrance we are given a tablet showing a map of the accessible areas, which makes it very easy to get around. The installations are spectacular and incredibly creative, and we even stop for tea in the “dark tea room”, which also has its share of surprises. I bought the tickets in advance (special wheelchair rate), and I’m glad I did. The museum has sold out completely for the day even though we arrive right at opening time.
We then wander through Azabudai Hills, the shopping complex that houses TeamLab, with its stylish boutiques.
From there we walk to the beautiful Hamarikyu Gardens, which overlook the harbour and where the spring blossoms make everything feel fresh and alive.
Then a bit of shopping in Ginza: Asics for my husband, Uniqlo for me, and Muji just to have a look.
Next, we head to the Mandarin Oriental for tea and a cocktail with a touch of Lost in Translation – but earlier in the day, with a view that is just as breathtaking.
Just a few steps away, the Mitsukoshi Nihombashi department store, a bit like Harrods, has a rooftop terrace with views over Tokyo.
Team Lab Borderless
Day 3 morning: Marunouchi, Imperial Palace Gardens, National Museum of Western Art & Shinkansen to Kyoto.
We spend our last morning in Tokyo discovering the Marunouchi district around the station, briefly visiting the Imperial Palace Gardens (we can’t go very far inside), and then the National Museum of Western Art. This museum has an impressive Impressionist collection and is located in Ueno Park which, clearly, has a lot to offer.
We try the metro to get from the museum to the station where we will take the train to Kyoto. I wanted to see how manageable it is outside of rush hour. It is quite accessible because there is an elevator down to the platform and the metro is almost level with it. But it is certainly easier at 11:30 than at 8:00…
At the station, we are offered assistance boarding the train, which we gladly accept. We wait in a calmer, dedicated waiting room for passengers with reduced mobility. Boarding the train goes smoothly. We are slightly surprised by an English announcement criticising tourists for travelling with oversized luggage. At least they’re honest about it. On the Shinkansen, there are six wheelchair spaces, which is generous. I accidentally reserved two wheelchair seats, but since the train is not full, my husband can sit in a standard seat.
In the shinkansen.
Days 3-7 : Kyoto in a wheelchair
Day 3 afternoon: Kamo River, Gion, Yasaka Shrine, Maruyama Park, Pontocho.
After an uneventful journey, we arrive in Kyoto, drop our luggage at the hotel and go for a walk along the Kamo River, lined with blooming cherry trees. We then turn into the narrow streets of Gion, the traditional geisha district. The pavement surface is fairly wheelchair-friendly, but the streets are crowded. As soon as we venture into parallel streets, however, it becomes quieter. We end our exploration of Gion at Yasaka Shrine, which is not fully accessible and requires a few steps. We later discover that there is an accessible entrance at the back, which we use on the way out. We enjoy dusk in Maruyama Park, which stretches behind the shrine and where food stalls beneath the blossoming trees offer snacks and small dishes.
As night falls, we cross the river to explore Pontocho a little – but as it starts to rain, we don’t stay long. We end the day with an excellent dinner at Sushi Kizaemon (wheelchair accessible).
Yasaka Shrine.
Day 4: Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, Tenryu-ji, Ryōan-ji, Kinkaku-ji, Imperial Palace, Nijō Castle.
We take a taxi to Tenryu-ji Temple, close to the Arashiyama bamboo forest. The temple buildings are not accessible, but the garden is – and in this season it is absolutely beautiful. The gravel paths are accessible but not very comfortable. From there, we enter the giant bamboo grove. It is quite unique… and very crowded. The path is uphill, which makes it a little sporty for the person pushing – but it’s short and quite impressive.
We then take a taxi to Ryōan-ji, with its famous Zen rock garden. You can cross the green garden to the temple in a wheelchair. You then have to leave the wheelchair outside, but they lend walking sticks, and the temple isn’t very big. Even so, getting back into my wheelchair afterwards is a real relief.
Kinkaku-ji is not far, so we walk there – well, my husband pushes me. The path is accessible with small slopes up and down. It is the most crowded of the three temples. The temple cannot be visited inside, so the visit is mainly about viewing the golden pavilion in the garden. The accessible route is a little shorter: when the steps begin, you simply turn back. Well thought-out, to be fair. We take a little break in the garden and then a taxi to the Imperial Palace.
The Imperial Palace visit consists of walking from one pavilion and courtyard to another. It is generally well-preserved – and yes, there is a lot of gravel… again.
We continue to the shogun’s residence, Nijō Castle. I had booked a ticket but only for the outer grounds, I had misunderstood the website. However, we are still allowed to skip the line and enter without difficulty, as both the wheelchair user and the accompanying person do not pay. I have to change into one of their wheelchairs to visit the interior because the accessible entrance is on the side. Everything is well organised. The palace is magnificent, even if many of the paintings are reconstructions.
We then wander through the lovely castle gardens and finish with a tea break in a small tea house. Delicious.
Before a wagyu beef dinner at a great restaurant, we walk through the covered shopping street Teramachi Kyogoku and the Nishiki Market. My husband is amazed by the Kobe beef – I find it delicious but a bit heavy to digest…
Gardens at Niho Palace
Day 5: More temples and Don Quijote.
We were meant to spend the day in Osaka… but a suspicious package at Kyoto Station changes our plans. After waiting a while, we eventually decide to stay in Kyoto.
We take a taxi to Fushimi Inari Taisha, famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates. It is generally accessible, although some sections include steps. I could have done it fully in the wheelchair, but as I felt quite fit in the morning, I walked a bit to explore further.
Next stop: Tōfuku-ji. The site is peaceful, less busy, and the atmosphere is very calm.
Then we visit Sanjūsangendō, with its 1001 Buddha statues. The interior is accessible and the long hall full of golden statues, all similar yet all different, is truly impressive. There is a lot of incense inside.
Back to the hotel for a nap, as I am very tired, then a short visit to the garden of the Kyoto National Museum. The museum itself is unfortunately closed that day, but we still enjoy the grounds.
We end the day with a trip to Don Quijote to buy souvenirs for family and friends.
Day 6: Philosopher’s Path, temples and tea ceremony.
It rains a little at the beginning of our walk, but fortunately it soon clears up after our visit to Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion — more modest than its golden cousin, but with a superb garden, though only partially accessible.
We continue along the Philosopher’s Path, a peaceful walkway following a canal lined with cherry blossoms. There are very few people at this early hour, which is lovely. The canal path is paved with stones, which makes parts of it difficult in a wheelchair. Fortunately, there is a parallel asphalted road which is much easier.
We make a stop at the small, intimate Hōnen-in Temple, then continue to Eikan-dō. Again, the building itself is not fully accessible, but we can borrow a wheelchair inside. The gardens, with their flowering trees and contemplative atmosphere, are beautiful.
Before heading to the Kyoto Handicraft Center for some shopping (kimono, books), we pass the huge Chion-in Temple with a torii gate of impressive size. Lunch is at Koma Gallery Café, peaceful, and with gluten-free options.
In the afternoon, we walk through the old quarter of Sannenzaka, very charming but crowded and not very accessible, and through the lively streets of Higashiyama.
After a short rest at the hotel, we head to Maikoya for a tea ceremony. The welcome is warm – they are very flexible about the wheelchair – and we are dressed in traditional clothing. The experience alternates between explanations and moments of silence.
We finish the day with a bit of shopping (tea and textiles) in the covered Teramachi Kyogoku street.
Philosopher’s path
Day 7 morning: One last temple and train station.
On our last morning in Kyoto, we visit Tō-ji Temple, famous for its five-storey pagoda. The site is accessible and the garden is stunning in this season.
Then we head to the station to take the train to Odawara, then a local train on to Hakone. The journey goes smoothly.
Days 7-8: Hakone in a wheelchair.
Day 7 afternoon: Hakone.
On arrival, we go to our hotel, where we have an accessible room. We spend the end of the afternoon between the onsen and the hotel’s lovely communal spaces.
Day 8: Owakudani, Hakone’s harbour, Open Air Museum.
We set out to explore the Hakone area, taking the bus up to the Owakudani volcanic crater. It is very windy and cold at the top, with sulphur vapours rising around us. Unfortunately, the cable car down to Lake Ashi is not operating. So we take the bus back towards the lake, where we walk along the roadside — the lakeside path is not very accessible, so the walk is a bit less enjoyable. We warm up with cake by the lake.
After that, the path is more or less accessible as far as Hakone Shrine, hidden in the forest. The torii gate in the lake is impressive. Access is limited for wheelchairs, so we keep the visit short and continue to Hakone Port, where we take a bus to the Hakone Open-Air Museum – a real highlight. Everything is accessible, the setting is beautiful, and the artworks – including Picasso and sculptures scattered across the landscape – are enchanting.
Temple on Lake Ashi – not really accessible.
Hakone Open Air Museum
At the end of the day, we take the train back to Tokyo. A small hiccup on arrival: we only had seat reservations, not tickets – something nobody had noticed earlier… but after paying the fare, it is quickly sorted out.
Then we check in to our Tokyo hotel.
Days 9-11 : Tokyo in a wheelchair (different neighbourhoods this time).
Day 9: Harajuku, Shibuya, Omotesando, Yoyogi Park, Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience, karaoke.
We start the day by walking to Harajuku. The atmosphere is young, colourful and exuberant – just like Shibuya and its famous crossing, which we photograph from the Starbucks overlooking it.
We move on to Yoyogi Park, which is calmer, then continue to the nearby Meiji-Jingu Shrine, surrounded by forest that shields it from the city.
We explore Omotesando and its elegant boutiques before finishing at Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience. It is deeply relaxing – at least for me, as my husband is less of a tea enthusiast. The teas, brewed with great precision, are delicious, and the meal, chestnut rice with sardine, then a traditional dessert, is exquisite. A suspended moment.
On the way back we make a small detour to the Togo Shrine before ending the day at Pasela Karaoke, which is accessible by elevator. We have a private booth for four hours during which I discover my husband’s (hidden) singing talents…
Day 10: Shinjuku (Shinjuku Gyoen, Golden Gai, walk). Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building.
Our last day in Japan. We begin by visiting Shinjuku Gyoen — vast and magnificent at this time of year. Accessibility is good and the nature is beautiful.
We then wander through Shinjuku’s streets as far as Golden Gai, lively at night but very quiet in the morning. The narrow lanes are wheelchair-friendly, but only because there’s nobody there…
We go up the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for a final panoramic view of the city. We partially skip the queue thanks to the wheelchair, although the staff at the entrance aren’t particularly helpful.
Then sushi lunch in a delicious conveyor-belt restaurant. We walk back to the hotel via Harajuku once more.
A taxi picks us up at the hotel to go to the airport. We leave Tokyo quite tired, but with our heads full of beautiful images.
We arrive in Seoul without incident and take a taxi from the airport to our hotel.
Days 11-12: Seoul in a wheelchair
Overall, the pavements are quite accessible. There are not always ramps. We mainly travel by taxi, as the city is large and quite hilly.
Day 11: Insa-dong, palace, cathedral.
We begin with Insa-dong Street, full of souvenir and traditional craft shops. We briefly visit Jogyesa Buddhist Temple, decorated with inflatable statues and colourful lanterns and garlands.
We continue to Gyeongbokgung Palace via the large square and imposing Gwanghwamun Gate. The palace consists of a series of courtyards and small buildings with one or two rooms and an upper floor. The gardens are less impressive than the ones we saw in Japan. The site is mostly accessible. Entrance is free for visitors wearing traditional Korean clothing, so many people are dressed up – which gives the visit a festive feeling.
We then walk through the traditional Bukchon Hanok Village, with its cobbled lanes and old houses. Some slopes are steep and pavements uneven. As it is very crowded, we don’t stay too long and move on to Changgyeonggung Palace. We stop for tea on the way, then continue our visit.
Lunch is a slightly late bibimbap with banchan. Delicious!
After a short rest at the hotel, we go to Myeongdong – neon lights, busy shops and lots of street food stalls. Before leaving, we visit Seoul Cathedral, 19th-century neo-Gothic, in a country where almost 30% of the population is Catholic.
We end the day with a night-time walk along Cheonggyecheon Stream, a redeveloped urban waterway. Very pleasant, with elevator and ramp access.
Palace Gyeongbokgung
Cheonggyecheon
Day 12: Starfield, Gangnam, War Memorial of Korea.
For our last day, we swap traditional palaces for contemporary Seoul. First stop: Starfield Coex Mall, a huge underground complex that feels like a city within a city. We start with Starfield Library – visually stunning, with high curved book walls that make you want to curl up with a good novel.
Then we continue to Gangnam, made famous worldwide by the song – but also a chic business district with skyscrapers and luxury shops. The pavements are wide and in good condition, but there are several slopes. We take a taxi to our lunch spot where we enjoy a delicious bulgogi.
Our next stop, the War Memorial of Korea, is close by. We begin outside, looking at the aircraft, tanks and other military vehicles in the courtyard. Then we visit the exhibition on the Korean War, which explains the origins and course of the conflict. Very interesting.
As I am very tired and it is raining, we take a taxi back to the hotel. After a rest, we go back out for bibimbap.
We leave Seoul on the next morning.
Gangnam
Summary: General impressions of accessibility in Japan
Overall, we were not the only tourists with a wheelchair – which is always a good sign. Public buildings and museums were generally accessible, with accessible toilets in every museum we visited. We received discounted tickets thanks to my Austrian disability card, which was accepted in most temples and museums with a few exceptions.
Tokyo
Of all the places we visited, Tokyo was the most accessible, with wide pavements in good condition, or road markings indicating pedestrian areas. Street crossings often had well-lowered curb cuts.
Kyoto
Kyoto was less accessible, partly because pavements were narrower and it was much more crowded. Temples varied in accessibility: lots of gravel, sometimes steps. Sometimes you could borrow a wheelchair to visit; sometimes visits had to be done standing (but a walking stick was usually available). There were always toilets at the temples, and very often accessible toilets – even when the temple itself was not fully accessible.
Hakone
Hakone was the least accessible place we visited in Japan, especially as we were using public transport. Buses that were supposedly accessible often had two steps at the entrance. The lakeside path was only partially accessible. It would have been easier if the cable car and boat had been running. This is my regret of the trip: I should have adapted the plan more once I knew the cable car and boats were closed.
Getting around
As always, one of the most crucial aspects when travelling in a wheelchair.
Urban transport: We used taxis extensively via the Go App, with my husband usually dismantling the wheelchair to fit it into the boot. This always worked smoothly. We tried the metro once in Tokyo: it worked well because both stations had elevators that were easy to find.
Transports entre les villes : The Shinkansen between Tokyo and Kyoto had several accessible wheelchair spaces. The one between Kyoto and Odawara had no dedicated wheelchair spaces but was still step-free. We always received help at stations — usually offered spontaneously — even if communication was sometimes a challenge. Luggage transfer between hotels was wonderful and made travelling much easier.
Conclusion: Travelling in Japan (and Seoul) in a wheelchair
Travelling in Japan in a wheelchair was both easier… and harder than I had imagined. Easier, because transport, museums and public buildings are often very well equipped, with elevators, ramps and accessible toilets almost everywhere. And harder, because temples, gardens and historic districts often mean gravel, slopes and steps. Tokyo felt the most accessible, Kyoto the most magical (but also the most crowded), and Hakone the least practical — especially when the cable car and boats were not running.
But accessibility is never the whole story. What really struck me was the kindness and calm helpfulness we encountered everywhere — station staff, museum staff, temple staff — always ready to assist despite the language barrier. With some planning, flexibility, a few taxis and a good sense of humour, travelling in Japan in a wheelchair is not only possible — it is deeply rewarding.
Would I go back? Without hesitation. There are still many temples, tea houses and cherry trees to discover — and hopefully no barriers stopping us from reaching Osaka next time.
If you are a wheelchair user dreaming of Japan: don’t let the gravel stop you — plan, adapt… and go.
♿ Accessibility Table – Japan & Seoul
| Place / Site | Accessibility level | Details |
| Tokyo – City streets | 🟢 Good | Wide pavements, lowered curbs. |
| Tokyo – Senso-ji Temple | 🟢 Good | Temple interior accessible by elevator. |
| Tokyo – TeamLab Borderless | 🟢 Good | Fully wheelchair-accessible; access map provided; discounted wheelchair tickets. |
| Tokyo – Tokyo National Museum | 🟢 Good | Ramps and elevators; accessible toilets. |
| Tokyo – National Museum of Western Art | 🟢 Good | Ramps and elevators; accessible toilets. |
| Tokyo – Ueno Park | 🟢 Good | Mostly flat, even paths; very crowded during cherry blossom season. |
| Tokyo – Hamarikyu Gardens | 🟢 Good | Mostly flat, even paths. |
| Tokyo – Yoyogi Park | 🟢 Good | Mostly flat, even paths. |
| Tokyo – Shinjuku Gyoen | 🟢 Good | Mostly flat, even paths. |
| Tokyo – Imperial Palace Gardens | 🟢 Good | Mostly flat, even paths. |
| Tokyo – Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building | 🟢 Good | Accessible by elevator. |
| Kyoto – City streets | 🟡 Moderate | Narrow pavements and large crowds make moving around harder. |
| Kyoto – Yasaka Shrine | 🟡 Moderate | Access possible via a side entrance. |
| Kyoto – Tenryu-ji Temple | 🟡 Moderate | Garden accessible; main building not accessible. Gravel paths. |
| Kyoto – Ryōan-ji Temple | 🟡 Moderate | Exterior garden accessible; interior only on foot (walking stick provided). |
| Kyoto – Kinkaku-ji Temple | 🟡 Moderate | Garden route partially accessible. |
| Kyoto – Fushimi Inari Taisha | 🟡 Moderate | Generally accessible, but some sections include steps. |
| Kyoto – Sanjūsangendō Temple | 🟢 Good | Fully accessible; visitors transfer into a provided wheelchair. |
| Kyoto – Ginkaku-ji Temple | 🟡 Moderate | Beautiful garden but only partially accessible. |
| Kyoto – Tō-ji Temple | 🟡 Moderate | Garden accessible. |
| Kyoto – Imperial Palace | 🟡 Moderate | Navigable paths but a lot of gravel. |
| Kyoto – Nijō Castle | 🟢 Good | Accessible side entrance; wheelchair transfer required inside. |
| Kyoto – Nishiki Market | 🟡 Moderate | Accessible, but aisles are narrow and very crowded. |
| Kyoto – Maruyama Park | 🟢 Good | Generally accessible. |
| Kyoto – Arashiyama Bamboo Forest | 🟡 Moderate | Sloping and very crowded; manageable with assistance. |
| Kyoto – Philosopher’s Path | 🟡 Moderate | Stone-paved canal path; smoother parallel road available. |
| Hakone – Owakudani | 🟡 Moderate | Site generally accessible; buses only partially adapted. |
| Hakone – Lake Ashi path | 🟡 / 🔴 Mixed | Partially accessible; sometimes requires walking along roadside. |
| Hakone – Open-Air Museum | 🟢 Good | Fully accessible; smooth paths and elevators. |
| Seoul – City streets | 🟢 Good | Generally smooth pavements; street-crossing ramps sometimes missing. |
| Seoul – Gyeongbokgung Palace | 🟢 Good | Mostly accessible with large outdoor spaces. |
| Seoul – Bukchon Hanok Village | 🟡 Moderate | Cobbles, slopes and crowds — sometimes difficult. |
| Seoul – War Memorial of Korea | 🟢 Good | Fully accessible museum and outdoor exhibits. |
| Seoul – Cheonggyecheon Stream | 🟢 Good | Elevator and ramp access; very pleasant walkway. |
Pictures by the author.
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