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Hamburg, city of water, bricks and…wheelchairs

Posted on 29 June 202529 June 2025 by Clotilde

After two failed attempts to travel to Paris by night train in recent years, I was a bit hesitant to book another night train trip – this time to Hamburg. But everything went smoothly. In fact, we were lucky enough to ride on one of the brand-new ÖBB Nightjet trains: modern, comfortable, and thoughtfully designed.

Hamburg turned out to be a truly accessible city. With only a few minor exceptions, the sidewalks are wide and smooth. There are very few cobblestones, even in the city center. Most public transport options are fully accessible. The main challenge – though quite manageable – comes from the many construction sites we encountered while visiting, that can occasionally block sidewalks.

Unsurprisingly, Hamburg is a city where you see many other wheelchair users out and about, which is always a good sign of genuine accessibility. And it’s all the better because Hamburg itself is so charming with its canals, lakes, and red-brick buildings.


Day 1: Arrival, Rathaus & Alster

After a slightly delayed arrival at Hamburg Hauptbahnhof, we walk to our accommodation, which isn’t fully accessible, but still manageable for me.

After a short break, we begin our visit with a tour of Hamburg’s City Hall (Rathaus). Tickets can be purchased in the entrance hall on the ground floor, while the guided tour takes place on the first floor, which is accessible by elevator. Wheelchair users get a reduced ticket price, and one accompanying person is admitted free of charge.

We then explore the surrounding streets and stopped for a gluten-free cinnamon bun at Isabella Glutenfrei, a bakery chain specializing in gluten-free goods with locations throughout Germany.

We have dinner on Colonnaden, a charming pedestrian street lined with several outdoor restaurants and end the day with a peaceful walk around the Alstersee, the central lake, enjoying the calm views and the soft evening light.


Day 2: Fischmarkt, Neustadt, St. Nikolai & The Lion King Musical

Our day starts early with a trip to the Fischmarkt. We take a taxi to get there, as it is easiest and fastest at this time of the day. The market is already lively despite the early hour, but also quite packed and bumpy due to the cobblestones – not the easiest terrain for wheelchair users. Still, it is funny to see people enjoying a beer at 8:00 a.m., with live music in the background.

We then return to the city center by ferry, an original and accessible way to see Hamburg from the water. Public ferries are generally well equipped for wheelchair users and easy to board.

Next up is a stroll through Neustadt and a visit to St. Nikolai, a former church whose tower now serves as a war memorial. The church itself was almost entirely destroyed during the 1943 bombings of Hamburg, but the tower still stands. An elevator takes you up to the top, where you’re rewarded of this hard effort with a 360° panoramic view of Hamburg – quite a spectacular sight. We then spend some time in the small museum close to the church’s entrance, which offers a detailed account of the destruction caused by the bombings.

We continue exploring Neustadt and Brandgasse, enjoying the variety of architectural styles and the relaxed atmosphere.

After a break at the apartment, we head out again for the evening highlight: The Lion King musical. We walk to the departure pier, crossing through St. Pauli and the Portuguese Quarter, both lively in the early evening. From Landungsbrücken, dedicated ferries bring you straight across the Elbe to the theatre – making the trip very easy.

The show itself is spectacular, staying very close to the original Disney storyline. The wheelchair-accessible seating is quite close to the stage, making the experience even more immersive.


Day 3: Blankenese, Elbe & Michaeliskirche

In the morning, we take the S-Bahn to Blankenese, a former fishing village turned upscale suburb. The area is famous for its many staircases, but there’s an accessible road that offers scenic views without any steps. Walking along the Elbe on a wheelchair-friendly path provides a welcome dose of nature, with a striking view of the massive Airbus plant on the opposite bank. Later, we return to the city to visit Michaeliskirche, one of Hamburg’s most iconic landmarks. The church is wheelchair accessible, and its interior, blue, white, and gold details, is absolutely worth the visit.


Day 4: Mönckebergstraße & Museums

After a morning stroll along Mönckebergstraße and a bit of light shopping, we begin our cultural tour at the Hamburger Kunsthalle, home to a rich collection ranging from medieval altarpieces to more contemporary works. The museum is accessible, although navigating it by elevator is a bit of a maze. But once you figure it out, it works well.

Our next stop is the Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe, which focuses on applied arts and design. Accessibility is once again good, and the exhibitions are varied and engaging. My highlight: a beautifully arranged Japanese teahouse among other cultural artifacts.


Day 5: Speicherstadt, HafenCity & Miniatur Wunderland

After a relaxed morning and a quick lunch at Edel Curry Wurst to try the famed curry sausage, we set out to explore HafenCity, Hamburg’s newest waterfront district. The area is modern and thoughtfully designed, with wide sidewalks that make it especially pleasant and accessible for wheelchair users.

We continue with the neighboring Speicherstadt, the historic warehouse district. While some of the streets are cobbled and a bit uneven, the area is still manageable in a wheelchair with a little extra effort. The striking red-brick buildings and network of canals make the detour more than worthwhile.

We end the day at the renowned Miniatur Wunderland, an elaborate miniature world with detailed displays of model trains, landscapes, and scenes from various countries. While a few exhibits are mounted slightly too high – making it harder to catch every detail from a seated position – the space is overall well accessible, with an elevator and enough room to navigate. It’s an engaging, fun, and mostly inclusive attraction for visitors of all ages.


Day 6: Maritime Museum & Elbphilarmonie

We begin the day with a visit to the International Maritime Museum of Hamburg, which spans ten floors. The collection is extensive, covering all types of seafaring – commercial, leisure, and military – across different eras. The museum is laid out with half-levels, which are accessible from either side of the building via elevators. However, this layout with the elevators means that you end up exploring the exhibition a bit out of order when you really need to take the elevators.

After a restful afternoon, we head to a concert at the Elbphilharmonie. This striking building, constructed on top of a former warehouse, is fully accessible and very modern. Wheelchair seating is abundant and very well located, offering a great view and comfort. The acoustic quality is outstanding, making the experience absolutely mesmerizing.


Day 7: Day Trip to Lübeck

For our last day of vacation, we take a train to Lübeck from Hamburg. After just under an hour, we arrive in Lübeck, greeted by rain. Fortunately, it does not last long, and we are soon able to stroll through the old town and visit the magnificent Gothic church of St. Mary (St. Marienkirche) before continuing on toward the river.

After a delicious lunch at Meersalz Lübeck, we wander further through the quaint streets, lined with fragrant rose bushes, typical for the month of June.

We return to Hamburg by train in the afternoon.


Conclusion: Hamburg in a Wheelchair – Worth It?

As I had hoped, Hamburg is genuinely accessible for wheelchair users. In fact, with a fully accessible accommodation, I believe I could have done this trip alone – which is still a rarity in many cities.

Public transport is a true highlight: clean, frequent, and mostly well-equipped. The city center has many pedestrian areas with wide, smooth paving and very few cobblestones, which makes a huge difference. All of the museums and attractions we visited were also fully accessible, with elevators and ramps.

And as always, one of the best indicators of a city’s accessibility is how many other wheelchair users you see out and about – and in Hamburg, we saw quite a lot.

Would I recommend Hamburg to other wheelchair users? Absolutely, with a bit of planning, as always when you travel with a wheelchair. And maybe an extra cinnamon bun from Isabella to keep your energy up along the way.


LocationAccessibilityDetails
Rathaus (City Hall)🟢 GoodAccessible via elevator; reduced ticket for wheelchair user, free entry for accompanying person.
St. Nikolai memorial and museum🟢 GoodElevator to tower, accessible museum space; reduced ticket for wheelchair use and free entry for accompanying person.
Michaeliskirche🟢 GoodAccessible entrance on the side.
Hamburger Kunsthalle🟢 GoodFully accessible; elevator layout a bit complex; reduced ticket for wheelchair user and free entry for accompanying person.
Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe🟢 GoodFully accessible; reduced ticket for wheelchair user and free entry for accompanying person.
Miniatur Wunderland🟢 GoodOverall accessible, some displays slightly too high; reduced tickets for wheelchair user and accompanying person.
International Martime Museum Hamburg🟢 GoodAccessible; reduced ticket for wheelchair user and free entry for accompanying person.
Lion King Musical (Stage Theater)🟢 GoodAccessible ferry and theater entrance; reduced tickets for wheelchair user and accompanying person.
Elbphilarmonie🟢 GoodAccessible with elevators; reduced ticket for wheelchair user & free entry for accompanying person.
Fischmarkt🔴 PoorCobbled ground and crowded: difficult to navigate in a wheelchair.
Blankenese promenade (via road)🟡 AverageAccessible via road, but steep in places.
Elbe riverside walk🟢 GoodWide paths, mostly smooth and easy to navigate.
Alstersee (lakeside walk)🟢 GoodMostly flat and wheelchair-friendly.
HafenCity🟢 GoodModern infrastructure; smooth and flat.
Speicherstadt🟡 AverageSome cobblestones, but manageable.
Hamburg Hauptbahnhof🟢 GoodElevators available.
Public transportations (including ferries)🟢 GoodFully accessible (except for a few stations).

Pictures by the author.


If you want to support and promote my blog, do not hesitate to buy one of my books: Un bac sous perfusion (disponible en format papier et en e-book) ou Wheelchair hop on hop off (also available in paper format and as an e-book).

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About

Hello! My name is Clotilde Aubet. I’m French, live in Austria, and work as a senior HR leader. I have been living with a chronic and disabling disease for over fifteen years and use a wheelchair in my daily life.

I write about living and working with a disability, inclusion and accessibility in the workplace, and accessible travel.

For more information, check out this page.

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